I have a surfer friend in Southern California. It seems every time I visit, at least once a day, we’ll end up parked at the beach and he’ll just gaze out into the ocean, judging the play of the waves—I guess. The eyes were definitely glassy…and the less glassy the ocean, the glassier the stare.
Now, I don’t surf, but I can appreciate the sport. Even more so after I watched a recent special on one of the cable channels about a little stretch of waves called Mavericks.
It is truly awe inspiring. I have enormous respect for these people who are wedded to the surf in some strange way. 
Go to the link above and you’ll see why.
And, if you’re hooked, you can plan your next big-swell date using a web site that predicts the waves, and shows you the current swells with live webcams around the world.
Surfs always up somewhere!!! 
Note gumby just above the crest…